Surfing is a simple pleasure. Certain sized breakers every so often swamp, half wipe-out, propel back and forth, deep enough water is one way while calm warm deep bouyant water is for when you go with the flow and take it easy, rise and fall between surprise dunking, the feet landing on softest sand. Feels wonderful afterwards in any warm summer breeze. This is one view from a binary female. She was not a strong ardent surfer.
2 comments:
Something I'll never do, I imagine.
I admire people who can surf, I don't have the balance.
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